Hemi 5.7 Supercharger

This info is intended to help our customers make more intelligent decisions and avoid common mistakes. All dyno tests on Kenne Bell Dynojet. These are not estimates or heresay numbers “bloated” by headers, strokers etc. Note: Actual RWHP on other dynos will depend on many factors (see Dyno Test Variables and Air Fuel Ratio Readings - The Pitfalls & Problems).

1. 11.5 AFR and optimum spark (22°) was used so as to eliminate variables. 1° spark = 4 HP.

2. 94 octane allows boost to be increased 1 psi (+20HP) via a 1/8” smaller supercharger pulley (3-3/8” vs. 3-1/2”).

3. Manual trans cars make 15 more RWHP than the automatics at 500RWHP level. Manual trans makes most HP in 4th. Auto trans 3rd gear.

4. To determine engine HP, divide RWHP by .85. Example: 520RWHP ÷ .85 = 611.

5. Kenne Bell Kits are factory tuned with OEM grade equipment. Custom tuning not necessary or recommended unless kit is altered or modified.

7. NEVER have your car’s air fuel ratio checked with any device other than the AFM1000, HORIBA or ETAS. Other devices can be off by 1-2 points. Sorry, we cannot accept data from any other AF devices.

8. Competition pulleys are available in 3-3/8” (9 psi), 3-1/4” (10 psi), 3-1/8” (11 psi) and 3” (12 psi). Standard is 3-1/2” (8 psi). 7.5” crank pulley with 3” is 15 psi.

9. 8 rib system available for higher boost (+15 psi) applications.

10. Recommended spark plugs - Denso Part# ITL 16.

11. Recommended octane booster - Torco Accelerator. Good for +7 octane. See “Jim Bell’s Supercharged/Turbocharged Performance Guide.” Buy 5 gallon container ($135) for best value. $7 per 20 gallons or .35/gallon.

12. Our dyno tests indicated “0” HP gain with cat backs. Even removing entire cat back was “0” HP. Dodge exhaust is very efficient.

13. Yea, yea, we know. The stock pistons are weak. But they DO hold 16+ psi for drag strip use IF YOU DON’T DETONATE the engine. Forged pistons will also fail under detonation. As with any engine, JUST DON’T LET IT KNOCK! Know your tuner if you play with boost.

14. Octane? “It never hurts to run more.”

FUEL SYSTEM - Kenne Bell 17V BOOST-A-PUMP™ and 60lb injectors included in all kits. Good for 650RWHP with stock pump. Use 20V BOOST-A-PUMP™ with 70-80lb injectors and stock pump for up to 765RWHP. ST Motorsports test car made 765RWHP (900 engine HP) @ 20 psi with 100% stock motor and car using 20V BOOST-A-PUMP™ and 80lb injectors. Still believe you need 2 pumps, bigger pumps and larger lines on your Dodge?

EXHAUST - The Magnaflow cat back came out on top in our dyno testing. Even our 7.0L 1200HP test car uses the Magnaflow with 2" American Racing headers.

HEADERS - The highest quality and most powerful long tube headers we've tested are the American Racing 1 3/4" and 2". The 1 3/4 headers made 40HP on the engine dyno. Be sure you have an experienced and reputable tuner re-tune the car. Chassis dyno tests are upcoming.

IGNITION - Stock works just fine to 20psi. Above 20psi, we recommend the Kenne Bell BOOST-A-SPARK.

CLUTCH - Centerforce dual disk for high HP applications. Their new clutch system was developed on our Mr. Norm Challenger. Handles 100HP and pedal is easy to depress.

TRANSMISSION - After 550HP, automatic trans needs the shifts firmed up with a valve body kit. HP begins to overpower the trans. At 950HP, it failed and was upgraded by Paramount Performance. It's now working well at 1000HP.

TORQUE CONVERTER - Keep the lock up unless you choose to give up 50HP. We use only Precision Industries lock up converters with stock stall speed on the Dodges.

DODGE 6.1 vs. SHELBY GT 5.4 - With the same cfm rated Kenne Bell 2.8H MAMMOTH™ Inlet System on both 100% stock engines and the same manual trans, boost, AFR and optimized timing (tune), the Dodge will outpower the 5.4 Ford by 65HP at all engine speeds.

Dyno Problem: Car shuts off when attempting any WOT chassis dyno runs. Before attempting WOT runs, be sure ABS, ESP, Brake and B A S lights are “ON.” Attempting to defeat ESP (traction control) will not solve problem.
The Solution: Drive car on dyno normally until all these (ABS, ESP, Brake and B A S lights are “ON.” Takes up to 10 minutes. Turning off ESP does NOT defeat system. The problem is NOT THE TUNE. It’s the Chrysler calibration.

Tech Support - All our people are knowledgeable and experienced. They tell it like it is. There’s no B.S. And they’ll NEVER recommend something you don’t need.

BREATHERS - Valve cover breathers required at high HP levels to avoid gasket damage/leakage and oil flow by into inlet system.

DO NOT . . .

DO NOT use any underhood filter, shrouded or un-shrouded. Voids your KB warranty. Hot underhood air heats the air, reduces HP and increases detonation and the possibility of engine damage. Note: “Shrouds” allow hot air to be sucked in around the gaps. And the filter runs “hotter” under the hood. And never assume 100% outside air magically finds it’s way through the front end openings and into the filter.

DO NOT install covers or shrouds over supercharger.

DO NOT modify knock sensor calibration.

DO NOT use a “tail pipe sniffer” AFR device under any circumstances.

DO NOT change rear end gear ratio.

DO NOT change, modify or replace any kit components including throttle body.

DO NOT re-tune kit - unless modifying the kit with larger injectors, throttle body, gears, headers, cams, etc. Kenne Bell offers NO custom tuning.

DO NOT change stock cam. Dodge’s Speed Density system relies on vacuum and rpm for engine operation. Cams LOWER vacuum. Your WORST nightmare. Cams are for all out racing only. Very difficult to calibrate for street use.